Last Updated on February 12, 2024 by Travelationship
Our 4-day tour with Ethio Travel and Tours (ETT) ended in one of the most inhospitable regions of the world. We had thought trekking Erta Ale Volcano was hot and uncomfortable – we had no idea that was the easy part of the four days. The description of days 3 and 4 seemed too light with lots of car time and only 60 minutes of walking between the two days.
Harsh Conditions for Afar People
Once we reached our lunch area in Berhale, we quickly understood why car time was such a considerable part of the itinerary. I believe the temp was 45℃. Most of us were miserably hot and uncomfortable and could not fathom how the Afar people survive these harsh conditions.
To put the conditions and local life in perspective – On the way to lunch, we passed three camel caravans, each led by two men. The caravans travel around 160 km ***one way*** to collect salt from the salt mines in the Danakil Depression.
Think about it! These men, with their camels and frequently donkeys, walk in 40-50℃ (104-122℉) weather every day to collect salt blocks worth 4 Bir each (about USD 0.25). Limitations are assessed for each camel and donkey. Our sorry asses could barely handle sitting 30 minutes for lunch; that was made and served to us certainly puts things into perspective.
Deeper into the Danakil Depression
After lunch, we continued our scheduled route, deeper into the Afar region, and passed a few more camel caravans. The plan was to watch the sunset over Lake Karum, but dense cloud cover turned it into more of an exploration of our surroundings. Lake Karum is highly salty, and the area we explored was barely covered by a thin sheet of water, no more than an inch deep in most places. While it wasn’t the experience we expected, it made for some pretty snazzy photos.
Afterward, the drivers circled the vehicles, and we all danced and sampled the local spirits. Next, they trucked us back to our camp for the night we shared with a small army outpost. This could qualify as the worst place we have ever slept. A wood cot frame with a cord woven and knotted into a standard square pattern, a crisp 48℃ breeze, and a group of drunken soldiers playing pool until all hours of the night a hundred yards away.
Visting the Dallol Volcanoe
Morning broke, and it was finally time to visit Dallol. We were ecstatic, as this was the part of the trip we most anticipated. Dallol is a continually active geothermal area in the Afar region, and it did not disappoint. The experience was exploring an alien world, and the colors were mesmerizing.
The land spread yellows, oranges, burnt reds, and neon greens in front of us in every direction, and to heighten the experience, a hint of rotten eggs drifted through the air. Indeed a more unique place we have never been. Our guide helped us navigate the area and limit our impact on this sensitive place.
Wrapping Up the Danakil Depression
After that incredible sight, it became difficult not to want to be done with the trip. We longed for a shower to cool off, and I was anxious to look at our photos to see if we could capture even a piece of what Dallol had to offer. We took a short walk through a cave in the area, followed by a visit to the salt mine. The mine was fascinating to see, but as it was a day of rest and no one was working, it was a fleeting moment. Our fabulous cook Mary made us our last lunch, and before you knew it, we were back in Mek’ele, and the trip was over.
Travelasics
We took our tour of the Danakil Depression through Ethio Travel and Tours (ETT as known by most locals). We took a four-day tour to the Erta Ale Volcano, the Dallol volcanic crater, and the salt mines. You do not have to do all four days. You can visit the Dallol volcanic crater and salt mines on a two-day excursion. ETT did not always feel the most organized, but they did the job. Price varies for tour duration, be sure to negotiate; fellow travelers reported paying various fees for the same trip.
While ETT is based out of Addis Ababa, they have many satellite locations. We got ourselves to Mekelle via Ethiopian Airlines, which affected our tour price. Buses can also take you from Addis Ababa to Mekelle; try Sky Bus or Selam Bus Line.
*TIP: If you fly into or out of Ethiopia via Ethiopian Airlines, it qualifies you for a special discounted rate when booking your internal flights in Ethiopia. To take advantage of this 50% discount, you must book at an Ethiopian Airlines branch. Tell them that you have an International flight with the company and would like the discounted rate for your internal flight.
Photo Tips:
My recommendation on this leg of the journey would be a wide-angle lens to capture the whole scene. As you walk around an ever-changing volcanic area, you might not always have the option of creating a lot of distance between you and the subject. Also, a macro can be pretty neat. You are navigating this area on foot and will have opportunities to connect with some of the intricate details.
Travelationship Rating:
5 out of 5 Travelationship High Fives. If you like adventure, partier, historical, bucket lister travel, you will love Dallol volcanic crater. Plus, this is your chance to view an alien planet firsthand.
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This seems like a unique experience, Matt and Heather! I would love to get the chance to visit this place one day!
I recommend it as an add on to Hong Kong.
Wow, I can’t tell if this part or the volcano are more fascinating to me. It’s so awesome that you’ve gotten to experience all of this. Um, and the face you made with the liquor: priceless.