Last Updated on February 12, 2024 by Travelationship
Kibera is the most prominent slum location in East Africa, comprised of several villages in Nairobi, Kenya. Population guesses varied from 500,000 to 1,000,000, depending on whom you asked. We were unsure if we should take a tour of Kibera or not. We didn’t want to participate in one of those “poorism” type viewing shows where local people are set up as display items – but we also remembered what a terrific and informative tour we took in Langa Township, South Africa, with Siviwe Tours.
After speaking with a local who happened to live in Kibera and recommended that we take the time to visit, we decided to take a tour. We booked a walking tour with Kibera Slum Tours, a local company utilizing Kibera residents as their guides and showcasing local businesses on their tour. Our tour guides, Charles and Evans, met us at the local Java House. Both young men were born and raised in Kibera and knew their way around quite well.
The Tour Begins
The tour covered seven areas of Kibera: Toi Market, local women’s shop, bio-recycling center, view of Kibera, bone center, school, and a Kibera home. From the Java House, we walked through the second-hand market, Toi Market, where bargaining was welcomed and expected. The Toi Market leads into the primary Kibera market, where just about anything from food to car parts is available for sale. Most prices within the Kibera market are set, and bargaining won’t get you far. The markets were vast and full of activity. We walked through the primary produce and housewares section, which led to the small, almost hidden restaurants. Each restaurant consisted of a tiny, tiny room.
Power Women Group
From the market, we headed to the Power Women Group Shop, founded by 15 women in 2004. We were instantly greeted by Beatrice and Rosemary, who explained to us PWG’s history and future goals. The women organized to help educate the public about HIV and change the local stigma. Their efforts changed how those with HIV were treated, employed, and educated in and around Kibera. The shop displayed clothing, jewelry, art, some housewares, and accessories, all made by one of the women. I did pick up a new yellow paper rolled bracelet to go along with my green, orange, and blue bracelets from Rwanda.
From the shop, we turned into the heart of town and headed toward the railroad tracks. The tracks were strangely fascinating. There was noticeable construction because buildings are now mandated to be further away from the tracks. And the garbage in and around the tracks was overwhelming. As we crossed the tracks, there was a noticeable difference between the more commercial areas to the residential areas.
Investing in the Future
Our first stop within the residential area was at a Bio-centre, local human waste recycling, and water center. Most of the villages within Kibera have one or more Bio-centres, which serve as a source of recycling and power within the community. They also serve as some of the district’s only running water sources. Residents pay one time or monthly fee to use the facilities. Learn more about the Bio-centres.
From the center, we had a bird’s eye view of the residential sections of Kibera. Filled with houses, makeshift schools, churches, and small businesses. The view was full of character and beauty, which for most would be surprising. Our guides pointed out the shared electricity wires between neighbors and how easy fires could breed through the villages.
We headed down the hill to visit a school and Victorious Bones Center where they turned animal bones into jewelry, household items, and crafts. The school was a primary and nursery class housed in an incredibly packed and rundown cement room. We were told this was an improvement on their previous classroom. The kids sang to us, and the teacher was very kind. She explained to us the school and the kid’s families were so poor that she was not paid for her services.
Victorious Bones Center
Next door to the school was the bone center. We found this to be the most interesting but uncomfortable part of the tour. The men were great and happy to have us there, but their working conditions were harsh. They needed facemasks to protect themselves from the bone dust and had none! Also, the temperatures inside the building were more than excessive. The sales pitch in the bone center was borderline hardcore. The products they were making were great, but we were not able to buy anything, which should have been left at that. Instead, we sat through a total of 3 sales pitches in a tiny super hot room while we continued to explain we could not buy anything.
The walk ended with a view of one of the bone worker’s houses. We signed the guest book and chatted briefly with Charles and Evans. Overall, the tour was fine, and we were glad we went. We can’t seem to put our finger on what we felt was missing, but we didn’t feel we walked away with a better understanding of Kibera as a community. However, we saw how close-knit some locals were in Kibera. The friendly greetings and interactions with the locals gave us a small glimpse.
Know Before You Go:
- Wear comfortable walking shoes. The tour is 3-4 hours of walking with some steep hills and uneven walkways.
- Cost is 2500 Ksh / about USD 24 per person (They prefer to be paid in Ksh)
- Bring water and maybe even a snack.
- Bring extra cash if you want to buy souvenirs.
- Make a note of the weather. The walk takes part mostly outdoors.
- Bring/wear sunscreen, a hat, and sunglasses.
- Photos are permitted in most areas. Ask first.
- Real people live and work in Kibera. Treat them as such with respect!
- Bring a handkerchief or something to protect your airways from the dust inside the bone factory. Bring extra facemasks for the workers.
For more information about the tours, head to Kibera Slum Tours.
Travelationship Rating:
3 out of 5 Travelationship High Fives. The sale pitches at each business location got to be a bit much. We wished we had learned more about the history and dynamics of Kibera and the people who live there.
You will like this tour if you like adventure, the outdoors, history, and customs.
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Super naive white ppl nonsense. Don’t pay to do a slum tour if you won’t buy anything. The whole point of them is to bring business, not for your benefit. Yikes.
You were tourists what did you expect. The only reason you were taken to some places is because for the tour guides to gain access they probably said ” we will bring people and they will buy your souveniers”. Also the colour of your skin (judging by the pictures) didn’t help much, it kind of made it an obligation, they probably got told off for bringing “wazungu” who didn’t buy. The horror!