Last Updated on March 6, 2024 by Travelationship
Pennsylvania Dutch Country (aka Deitscherei) is an area centered on Lancaster County in southeastern Pennsylvania. It was originally named so because it comprised many people speaking Germanic-based languages. Today, it is home to many Amish and Mennonites who are both doing their best to resist the changes of the modern world creeping in all around them. This is a difficult task, with Philadelphia, Baltimore, and Harrisburg all within 50 miles of the region.
A Dutch Country Road Trip
I have wanted to visit Pennsylvania Dutch Country for years. Matt had been in or around the area several times, but this was my first time. I thought it was beautiful. I admit I am an idiot when it comes to a lot of the details regarding the Amish and Mennonite way of life. In an overly simplified description, I understand the Amish live off the land, don’t use electricity or electronics, and use horses, non-pedal bicycles, or walking as their mode of transport. Mennonites can use electronics and drive cars. Throughout the day, I came up with several questions regarding instances I observed, but I never seemed to find someone willing to make eye contact with me to ask.
We tried to stay away from the touristy sites of Lancaster County. We didn’t want to experience the area in such an altered way. Instead, we wanted to see the countryside and view the area from the less traveled roads. I am not sure we accomplished exactly what we set out to do, but we had a wonderful day.
Time to Experience a Mud Sale
The trip started at an Amish Mud Sale in Rawlinsville, PA. I had never heard of a mud sale before that day. A coined term by the county of Lancaster, a mud sale is an enormous outdoor rummage sale held at a local firehouse. The sales are in the spring when the ground is thawing, creating mud. More information is available here.
The sale was a blur of action, with simultaneous auctions under several tents. There was a barn housing the horse sale. I kept returning to the horse auction for a few reasons. One, they had several Saddlebred horses for sale, which surprised me. I grew up showing Saddlebreds, so seeing them as workhorses was a different take for me. Two, the horse auction’s pace and excitement were unparalleled by the other auctions. Third, some of the horses had visible injuries, and nothing was done to fix the injuries before or after the horse went up for sale.
Looking for More Knowledge
I tried to ask two men questions about the crossbreed of one of the horses, but neither seemed delighted or willing to talk to me. Which made me think I was doing something wrong by asking questions and not understanding the proper etiquette when speaking with an Amish person. My ignorance led me to observe the rest of the day.
The rest of the mud sale was crazy busy. It was well organized into sections for furniture, kid’s toys, carriages, pet housing, kid playgrounds, kitchenware, flowers, etc… Each area had its auction callers, and each zone was quite busy, but every section seemed to run smoothly. It was fun to go to the different auctions and see how this place was a well-oiled machine overall.
A Quick Thought From Matthew
Mud sales are a community event. I wouldn’t be surprised if 80% of the neighboring residents were involved in the event in one way or another, as it felt like the whole town was in attendance. I also breathed a sigh of relief that my mom had not accompanied us to this event, as we would never have made out of the antique tent.
Time to See More of Dutch Country
After we had left the sale, we drove around the country roads. It was spring, so many farmers were preparing their fields for planting. I grew up on a farm and have always loved the wide open spaces. Growing up in Minnesota, I don’t think I ever saw anything but a farmer with his John Deere. This area was the complete opposite. It was beautiful to see the farmers working the land with their horses. We did see a few tractors, but mostly, there were huge horses out there pulling the tills.
Bird-in-Hand and Intercourse, PA, are pretty touristy areas. I believe there are several horse and buggy vendors, lots of shopping, and a huge tourist trap that claims to offer everything under the sun that could be made or touched by someone Amish. Both towns are cute and are very much geared toward tourists.
Lunch Time in Intercourse, PA
In Intercourse, we stopped for lunch at the Old Mill Restaurant. I highly recommend this place. It had the best vegetable beef soup I have ever tasted! Ask for Maribeth; she was incredibly sweet and could not have made us feel more welcome. The restaurant prides itself on serving homemade food, and for good reason. The burger Matt ate and the steak wrap I had were both delicious.
Before leaving Intercourse, we made one more stop at a farm off of the main road. They were selling homemade root beer, and we couldn’t resist. We drove up, and amid the big barns was a little cement building full of fudge, baked goods, and knick-knacks. It was really adorable. We purchased one bottle of homemade root beer and hung out on their outdoor bench to watch the farmer in the field. The root beer was good, and I was convinced it had molasses, but the young sales lady assured me there was not. Unfortunately, they do not advertise a farm name or anything like that…so if you are driving down Old Philadelphia Pike in Intercourse, look for a black and gray root beer mug cut-out sign that says Homemade Root Beer.
Additional Lunch Options
Here are a few other options for lunch:
- Amos’ Place is a family-owned restaurant that serves Amish and Mennonite cuisine in a casual setting. They are known for their delicious breakfast and lunch options, including traditional dishes like scrapple, pot pie, and shoofly pie.
- Oola Bowls Intercourse is a great option for a healthy and refreshing lunch. They offer a variety of açai bowls, smoothies, and salads made with fresh ingredients. They are also a popular spot for those following vegan or gluten-free diets.
- The Village Cafe is a popular breakfast, lunch, and dinner spot. They offer various American cuisine options, including sandwiches, salads, and entrees. They also have a large selection of pies and cakes for dessert.
Lodging Considerations
If you would like to turn your day trip into an impromptu two day getaway here are a few hotel options for you.
- Best Western Plus Revere Inn & Suites is a casual hotel in Intercourse. It offers free Wi-Fi, breakfast, and parking, as well as two pools and a classic restaurant. Guests also rate it highly for its cleanliness and comfortable beds.
- Inn & Spa At Intercourse Village is an elegant circa-1909 B&B located in Intercourse. It offers quaint quarters, a garden, a spa, and a candlelit breakfast. This hotel is a great choice for a romantic or relaxing getaway.
- Travelers Rest Motel is a basic hotel located in Intercourse. It offers free Wi-Fi in common areas, complimentary breakfast, and Amish farmland tours. This is a good option for budget-minded travelers.
- Cork Factory Hotel is a posh boutique hotel located in Lancaster. It is housed in an 1865 landmark with original brick interiors and features a locavore restaurant. This hotel is a great choice for those who want a unique and stylish place to stay.
A Little Etiquette
Three imperative notes if you are planning on visiting Amish country:
- Do NOT take pictures directly of an Amish person or any photos in which their faces are recognizable. The Amish belief system does not include pictures of themselves in their homes or otherwise. Please be respectful and ask to take a photo or frame/time your photo, not to include a recognizable face.
- When passing a horse pulling a carriage, do not honk, do not race by, and do not pass too closely.
- Be respectful. Remember you are the visitor.
Recommendable: YES! It is a gorgeous area and a fantastic opportunity to learn about the Amish lifestyle. My biggest regret is myself. I wish I had researched more about the Amish and Mennonite belief systems so I would have been more comfortable asking questions.
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